Wednesday 22 December 2010

I dreamed a dream.....

Whilst I continue to be full of flu, a little story for you on what is likely to be my final blog post of the year...

When See All Her Faces was a little girl, her dream was to own a sweetshop. Primarily to eat all the sweets. I realised that wasn't going to be a self-sustaining business, so I then decided I wanted to be a world-famous fashion designer. That didn't look like it was going to quite work out for me, so I set my sights on making the cover of London's ES magazine, for achievements not yet determined- but my self-imposed deadline for this also passed, so I revised my expectation downwards. I decided that I would be happy if I once, ever made it onto the Grazia Stylehunter pages- singled out for an impeccable outfit choice, thereby entitling me to feel that my fashion choices had the respect and acceptance of my fashion savvy peers. (I am only being slightly tongue in cheek I'm afraid)

And lo- and behold, my dream pretty much came true last week!! Well it does still count if it happened to the friend I was sitting next to, right? OK maybe not, but let me tell you about it anyway. Said friend was rocking a gorgeous £20 dress from the new Barbara Hulanicki range at George, similar to this:



N.B. You may have read about this new range (you can buy it online here ) earlier in the year. Barbara Hulanicki is better known as the founder of the iconic Biba brand of the 60s and early 70s that influenced fashion globally, and House of Fraser recently re-launched an exclusive Biba range, at fairly aspirational price points (you can find that here ) before Barbara promptly stuck two fingers up at the department store and  launched  her own range at Asda. At the time she told Drapers “I always find everyone who buys it [the Biba trademark] thinks of it as couture, but I think it is more like Woolworths – which is what it was always meant to be..[The House of Fraser collection] is too expensive... The prices [at Asda] are just amazing. “These [the George at Asda prices] are silly billy prices, which is what Biba is supposed to be. You go shopping, you buy your carrots, then you buy a dress.”


Anyway, back to the story. Towards the end of a long evening out in central London, just as we were about to admit defeat, my friend was approached by a proper trendy wendy. It transpired that the woman was a writer at Grazia magazine, and she spoke at considerable length about how amazing my friend's dress looked, and the general awesome-ness of her outfit. In fact she told me friend that she could easily get away with claiming it cost hundreds of £££s. Which I'm sure is true-but anyone can get a nice dress for £800. You need a real eye to find a fantastic dress for £20, so I think there is much more kudos in that.

And there you have it. Outfit approval from  style bible Grazia. Merry Christmas Jacqui you lucky thing.

Come Fly With Me (eventually)

I was supposed to be flying to Ireland from Heathrow on Sunday to see family for Christmas.
Which , as you will have guessed, didn't happen. And whilst I was probably the only person in the country holding airline tickets who was actually relieved by this news (I am full of flu so was going to have to miss it anyway) I'm no less horrified by the outcome. And I realise I am one of the lucky ones.

Yes apparently I'm going to get a refund on my original ticket. But in order to actually get to see the rest of my family before 2011 I have had to buy another ticket in the mean-time (the airline's website wasn't allowing me to simply change the dates of my original ticket like it was supposed to- good start), which, because of the laws of supply and demand (not much supply, plenty of demand) has cost me £75 more.


It seems to me like the airline are doing ok- they are making plenty of money by charging people more for tickets that are now something akin to gold dust. BAA (who run Heathrow airport) are also doing ok, because despite the moeny they may have lost over the past few days, they made pre-tax profits of nearly a billion last year (and spent only £500k preparing for the snow) so I think they will somehow pull through.

It seems like its the customers who have ended up with the short straw here. People who have missed their chance to go home for Christmas, who will not see family and friends at this important time of year. Customers who despite being organised and getting a reasonably priced ticket for December,  have not only been massively inconvenienced, and now have to pay through the nose to get home on another ticket.

Why aren't BAA (or the airlines) covering these additional costs? Why haven't they been coming up with more ideas/better ways to get people home?  They seem to simply have delivered the bad news and sat back, because they know they can. Or at least they think they can. Don't let BAA away with it, vote with your feet and fly from Gatwick next time- they spent £7m preparing for the snow and were operating at 90% capacity whilst Heathrow ground to a halt.

BAA- Bah humbug indeed.

Monday 6 December 2010

The social network

In a thrilling new development- Look for the See All Her Faces page on Facebook, and go and 'Like' it please..
Or become a Fan? not sure what the difference is yet.... but I'll be using it in conjunction with Twitter and this Blog to continue to share retail news, view and general observations.

Changing Faces..

Some statistics from the BBC to chew over- on the number of vacant stores in the UK and the nature of the remaining retail outlets, painting a fascinating picture of how both the downturn, and our evolving consumer habits, are changing the face of your local High Street.


So how accurately do you think this reflects your local High Street? Is it awash with supermarkets, discount stores, hairdressers and charity stores? I'd say this rather succinctly sums up those that I am familiar with.

Overall, shop vacancies are up from 10.5% to 14% this year report retail analyst Local Data Company, as the impact of the economic downturn continues to be felt,  but the rate of emptying stores is thankfully slowing down. A town I know well- Altrincham in Cheshire is, it transpires, the very worst individually hit town in the country- with 29.6% of shops empty. But if you know the area I'm sure you didn't need to be told this- the considerable decline of this formerly smart high street was obvious.

Somewhat unsurprisingly  off-licenses, and to a lesser degree travel agents have been particularly badly hit through the U.K.- well we all book our holidays online these days, and our booze from Tescos, so inevitable they are struggling.

The recession has however also contributed to the success of discount retailers such as Poundland, and of course the charity shops, who are able to operate profitably in tertiary sites where retailers might fear to tread, due to their low operating costs (it's easier when you have charitable status and don't have to pay your staff!).

The other interesting observation is that the nature of purpose of your High Street seems to be changing. It used to be the hub of the town, catering for your every purchasing need as you went about your week. Now we have huge supermarkets, shopping centres, and of course the internet to fulfil these requirements, cheaply and efficently. So the High Street becomes more of a hobby- a way to pass the time, providing those services that you simply cannot get online- as the butcher, baker and candlestick maker are replaced by the hairdresser, the coffee shop, and a Subway.

So what can we do? Well change is inevitable of course, but if you are lucky enough to still have a broad range of retail outlets on your high street, you simply must support them. The bookshop may be more expensive than Amazon, the wineshop might not do two for £10 like in Sainsburys, and the boutique might have a much narrower range than Topshop- but I tell you what- you'll miss them when they're gone.

Wednesday 1 December 2010

On the First Day of Christmas...

Happy First Day of Advent readers!

As an early gift to you I pass on a recommendation for a great website to add to your must-hit shopping saites. It's call Escentual and they offer an impressive range of  beauty products- fragrance, skincare, haircare, make-up, bath and shower etc, with the majority of the top brands, at very reasonable prices.

Now that's not such a big deal in itself, but here was what really clinched it for me- the little extras that really made my shopping experience feel special, and made me feel like a valued customer on only my first purchase.


The free delivery for purchases over £40 was a good start (easily spent on a beauty website!) but things got serious when they offered complimentary gift-wrapping with a personal message on the gift-tag. And then when I received my package this evening my joy was complete. A complementary yet very good quality nail file and sampler of a yummy new fragrance.

Little things yes- but compared to the impersonal and dismissive shopping experience the majority of e-commerce sites provide (why ARE they still charging for delivery when it is clearly a dis-incentive for shopping online?!) these all stacked up to result in one very happy shopper- and a willing advocate- the holy grail of retail.....

Wednesday 24 November 2010

We're open for business!

Very interested in Google's new venture http://www.boutiques.com/ - their attempt to make online fashion shopping easier and abit more interesting. Both worthy aims indeed. Whilst it is relatively easy to shop for certain goods online; those which are standardized and easy to compare in terms of functionality and price (such as brown and white goods), the experience tends to be more akin to searching for the needle in the proverbial haystack when it comes to fashion online.

Oh the nights I've spent in front of the laptop trawling through endless pages of fluff from my usual go-to online fashion retailers, either looking for something in particular (why can't I find a classic, plain belted trenchcoat from any of the high street stores? Anyway I digress), or in the hope of finding an inexpected gem.

So what is this new website of which I speak?

Well, the site offers a large curated range that has been categorised by colour, style, designer, celebrity, trend, retailer, blogger and silhouette. The site's search engine is then able to identify items of clothing and accessories by one of several basic style genres: classic, romantic, casual chic, edgy, street and boho; and can much more accurately suggest items and/or accessories that fit the user's personal preferences (for those who don't love it when they try to order a little black dress and are suggested a pair of sneakers to 'complete the outfit'. And it's not as if Google doens't already have pretty good form with matching user behaviour to potential 'likes'. You can also create your own personalised boutique, and make the experience social by following boutiques created by celebrities, friends, designers.
I think the site looks pretty good actually- similar to the 'magazine' style increasing numbers of fashion online sites are adopting. But in the interests of being able to give you a full review of whether this is going to completely rock your clothes shopping world- I have created my own boutique on the site!!! It's very much a work in progress so please bear with me.

Please have a look and let me know what you think!

See All Her Faces Boutique

Wednesday 10 November 2010

It's all about the voucher codes....

Around three years ago I was working for a very large multichannel retailer. They decided to start periodically offering some of their VIP customers an exclusive temporary 'discount code'  they could use when shopping online, as a reward for the customers' continued loyalty and no doubt hefty credit account. The clever marketing department patted themselve son the back for their excellent initiative.

Cue the first Monday trading meeting after the discount code had been launched, and pandemonium breaking out amongst the trading team. It shockingly transpired that our supposed loyal customers had actually been telling friends and family and anybody else who would listen, about their discount code, so that they could all avail themselves of the benefits too. Who would have thought. The take up of the discount code had been 300% higher than expected, and as such had decimated the channel/department's stock and margin for the week. Red faces and burnt fingers all round.

Well as Dinah Washington never sang.. What a different three years makes.


Turns out our marketing department were onto something after all (even if their execution was naive at best) as these days online voucher or discount codes form a key part of a retailer's marketing strategy and as such are made widely available- they are relatively cheap but offer the retailer myriad benefits... and customer don't come off too badly either...

For us: Cheaper goods (hurray!) and potentially discovering (or rediscovering) a site we like that we haven't shopped at before.
 For the retailer: A simply way to reward existing customers thereby building their loyalty further. Ability to clear over or old stocks with targeted voucher code. Ability to attract new or dormant customers to the brand, who may in time also become loyal advocates. And of course ultimately the voucher code drives sales, and (if managed correctly)relatively cheaply too.

Inevitably a number of websites have sprung up to capitalise on retail's new enthusiasm for discount codes (and our eagerness not to miss out on a bargain in straitened times) by advertising all of these, with the ability to browse or search for a particular brand. If you're interested My VoucherCodes is thorough, whilst the Voucher Mum has a good range incorporated into its broader scope of thrift and saving money (and is a charming read).

But I'd warn that retailers should think carefully about their use the voucher code as an easy way to top up flagging sales. There is an increased risk of checkout abandonment and serious hits on profit margins using these codes, as customers on the site who were expecting to purchase at full price, notice the prompt for a discount code at checkout, and abandon their purchase, only to revisit once they've picked themselves up a nifty little discount code- so the code in that instant has not driven an additional sale, simply eroded profit on an existing one. (This can be minimised by more thought on the distribution of the codes, and on how customers are prompted for these at checkout. Some excellent suggestions here how-should-online-retailers-handle-discount-codes.)

Overall though discount codes seem like a pretty fair win win for consumer and retailer. Which of course means that actually the benefit is far greater for the retailer than the shopper- but hey, for 10% off plus free delivery, I can make my peace with that.

Wednesday 20 October 2010

Look Sharp!

See All Her Faces has unfortunately had to go into hibernation recently, but I am now crawling back from under my rock, squinting a little as I get used to the light, and having a look around me to see what is new in the wonderful world of retail...

And I note with some bemusement that in the intervening period Mad Men has become no longer simply a show that I take an almost obessive interest in, but also something of a cultural and fashion-wide phenomenon.

It started off as a little watched, slow-moving, period piece hidden away on BBC4, lovingly re-creating the era of the late 50s onwards- the fashion, the decor, the heavy smoking and daytime drinking...
And then Prada and Louis Vuitton started channelling a Betty Draper vibe... And Christina Hendricks' pneumatic figure (playing the fabulously fearsome office manager Joan Holloway)  was embraced by the public as the refreshing antithesis of the tired skinny celebrity stereotype...



And now you can't sneeze without falling over another of the abundant of Mad Men references out there currently (hmm... overkill anyone?)... nonetheless...an observation or two...

 I note with interest that the impact of this TV show on the clothing landscape seems to dovetail somewhat appropriately with the current consumer attitude to spending- namely that fashion trends have seen a definite move away from the 'gimmicky' fast fashion trends styles that have dominated the landscape in recent years, towards classic, timeless, enduring (and dare I say more sensible) choices..

We are currently paying a little more for items such as this seasons camel coat, shift dress, midi heels, cocktail rings, blouses and so on... that we expect to make us happy a lot longer.

In these straitened times we are looking for more certainty, and more security- beautiful clothes that will last, styles that will hold their relevance- 'investment pieces'... we haven't the money or time, whilst we worry about mortgages and jobs, to waste money on clothes we don't like, won't wear, or can't last.

And as Christina Hendricks' embraces her curves, so we now want to enjoy wearing clothes that actually make us look and feel attractive (that means a goodbye to the dastardly hareem pants)- with a wardrobe we will continue to love long after Mad Men has finished its current season.

'Looking sharp' is a key theme on the show. There is no such thing as business casual at Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce- Guys sup their mid-morning whisky in a natty suit, the ladies sashay in impeccable shift dresses... and this is being borne out on the high street. RetailWeek announced in the last week that Ted Baker have seen first half profits soar by 25% as customers look for smarter product during the downturn.

So evidently the public knows as well as Donald Draper does, that no problem seems insurmountable when you're in a bloody good suit.

Monday 26 July 2010

Your High Street Needs You!

See All Her Faces went dark over the last few weeks, but I'm back now! I was in mourning, because a lovely little gift shop has closed recently on my local high street- the second one since I moved to the area. In fact the first one was featured in the Evening Standard as one of the 'secret finds' in London, around a fortnight before it had to shut up shop for good.

So clearly- Houston we have a problem.

It is a well-publicised fact, that the humble high street has been in decline for a long while now. The rise of out of town mega supermarkets, which cater not only to your every food whim at a low cost, but also now provide clothes, home furnishings, electronics etc etc, mean that some time ago it became part of our weekly routine to drive to the supermarket and stock up, rather than pick up bits as and when from our local stores- who we found in comparison to have  too limited, and too expensive, a range.

And then the fight-back began- for a number of reasons- a realisation that if we didn't look after our high street it wouldn't be long before it was all charity shops and KFCs, an appreciation of the quality of product coming from local, specialist vendors (meat, fruit and veg, unique furniture or clothing etc), an environment (and financial) awareness also- of reducing one's own consumption and waste by buying little and often, and reducing food miles by spending our pound on more locally sourced ingredients; and finally, a migration towards that which we know and trust, and which knows us, in uncertain times.



So if, as the campaign goes, we now all 'Love Your Local High Street', why are shops still closing?
They have a captive audience, due to their proximity and thus convenience, they have a customer base which is alot more switched on to supporting local business, for both altruistic reasons and plain old self interest.... Yes there is a tough economic climate- but any stores who couldn't survive that closed long ago, as things are getting better rather than worse at the current time....
There are a few reasons why some local retailers still have some work to do to get you to spend your money with them.... And as ever, it's all about the customer.

1. Knowing the Customer.
The customer should be at the heart of everything a good retailer does, whatever their size. Every decision should be made with the end purchaser in mind, and whether it will enhance their shopping experience, and make them more likely to buy and to return. In order to do this you must 'know' your customer. Who are they, what sort of things do they like, what are they comfortable spending, how often do they shop, how long do they shop for, who inspires their choices and decisions... the list is endless.

This is a lot more difficult for the big boys, who do not have the opportunity to know or interact personally with the customer walking through the door (or clicking through on the web), and as such they must rely on sales performance/web stats, market research, and data derived from loyalty schemes (which they place a huge premium on- so remember how much you are personally helping Tescos in exchange for your Clubcard vouchers)  in order to figure out who you are and try to sell more stuff to you.  .

Small businesses have a huge advantage here- they have the potential to interact with every customer who walks in the door, a unique opportunity to observe and better understand their customer base and their habits- to guage what their customer base looks like, which products they are interested in, how they shop, and to build spend and ultimately loyalty, based on the product and service they provide.
But they don't always use it. A clothes store I know serves quite a young, relatively wealthy area, and has a constant stream of trendy ladies desperate to spend the money burning a hole in their pocket. Yet I rarely see anyone buy anything because the store simply doesn't cater to their needs-,they have no representation of this seasons' trends and a huge very retro vintage section that doesn't cater to the tastes of the locals... Perfext example of a Buyer selecting products they like..

2. Serving the Customer.
 And then we come to something else that should be a no-brainer for small businesses- Customer Service. Again an area that large retailers are notoriously weak on (apart from the saintly John lewis one hastens to add), this is rather difficult to succeed on with inexperienced, poorly trained, un-motivated staff. It should be so much easier with a friendly expert on hand, with an interest in helping you make your purchase decision.
Local retailers have the chance to make you feel valued and welcome the moment you walk through the door (and you don't get that at Tescos). They can advise and inspire you and thus gain your trust and loyalty (regardless of perhaps an increased cost)- what you could make with those broad beans, what belt might look good with that dress, which model of laptop you should be going for....
And yet- How many times have you been in a local store, where you have either been harrassed, or ignored, when you might have happily discussed the product, or what you were looking for, given the chance? There is another clothes store close to me, with beautiful dresses, that I never go in since the day I tried one on and got the hard sell from the couple who owned the shop, pushing me to spend £250 on two dresses!

3. Doing it Better than the Competition.
And finally- learning lessons. Successful retailers are constantly looking outside themselves to find ways they could improve- looking at things their competitors are doing well, whether that is new products, cheaper prices or innovative services. To stay ahead of the game you need to know what everyone else is doing, and offer something different, something better. Those managing small businesses need to be cogniscent of what their competitors are doing- even the big ones, so that they are one step ahead of the game,, and to understand if it is something they should also be doing, or whether they have a point of difference that renders it un-necessary. And one thing we now know is it isn't necessarily about price anymore- people ar ewilling to pay if they feel they are getting a good deal. So if the other shops are reducing their prices on electronics do you need to? Maybe, if you want to stop them taking some of your sales, or maybe not, if yours are high quality, and the sale comes with expertise and service that marks you out from the rest. But either way you need to know what they are doing and why you are/aren't.

So, too late for my local gift shop then, but as the high street evolves, maybe something even better will take it's place. Here's hoping that doesn't mean a KFC....

Wednesday 23 June 2010

Heres to You Mrs Robinson...

Mary Portas is my retail crush. Her career in retail started off in visual merchandising, and her big break came  at Harvey Nichols, where her creativity and passion were credited with turning around the brand's fortunes -with exceptional window displays (that became part of guided tours of London no less), the championing of young designers, and of course getting all that free publicity on 'Absolutely Fabulous'.. She was invited to join the Board of HN before even turning 30, and eventually left in 1997 to launch her very successful retail consultancy Yellow Door. And the rest as they say, is history.

She is undeniably a fantastic role model for women in retail, and whilst I could sing her praises all day long (the bitchy asides on Queen of Shops make the show worth watching alone); actually, that's not what I wanted to cover today.  Mary's next TV project is a topic close to my heart. She is tackling the invisibility of the mature female consumer on the High Street- a subject I covered in my MBA dissertation two years ago.

The statistics look something like this. Due to higher birth rates in the post-war years (the 'baby boomer' generation), increasing life expectancy, and the current slower birth rates;  the proportion of  the population which is over 50yrs old is greater than ever, and is set to continue rising. These 'baby boomers' have re-defined our expectations of older people and most importantly have a considerable financial influence (the over-55s control about 80 per cent of the country's wealth).



And yet. Studies have demonstrated that the mature female is continuing to get the 'cold shoulder' from marketers and researchers, and that the fashion retail sector in particular has been slow to respond to the lifestyle changes of this customer. Basically they don't really know what the older female customer wants, and they don't appear to care much either. Which of course anybody with a mother who has tried in vain to find a 'Mother of The Bride' outfit that wasn't lilac, or ruffle-y, that made her look good- not mutton but not lamb either, would already know.

My research demonstrated that the modern mature female have myriad and complex considerations when deciding what clothes they want to buy and wear; and this is probably why they have not to date been tackled in earnest by retailers, despite their considerable financial pull.

They want to look and feel good- glamorous, sophisticated, smart, in an age-appropriate way. Quality, fit, and fabric are crucial- they want classic, well made pieces, cut impeccably to soothe insecurities about aging bodies. Older women are influenced by celebrities and designer style as seen in magazines and the internet, and also inspired by their peers and family (the invaluable mother daughter shopping trips). They don't feel catered for by the majority of high street brands, due to the distinct lack of the following: suitable products, older models in marketing campaigns; older shop assistants offering meaningful advice etc.

And at the end of the day who wants to try to come up with a marketing message that addresses all these requirements and concerns, when they can keep making clothes for twinkies by ripping off celebrities and luxury fashion designers?

Well. some retailers have bee trying hard to address this issue- M&S with their multi-generational ads, showing they can be a credible destination for you and your daughter, Wallis with their range designed and modelled by Yasmin Le Bon, who may be a supermodel but at least is 45 yrs old.
Other retailers such as Whistles, Jigsaw, and Reiss avoid directly marketing to specific age ranges, and instead focus on creating a brand identity and image (in Reiss' case- "individual, stylish and sexy clothes") that appeal as a lifestyle choice that can appeal to customers of varying ages.

But there are still not enough fashion business producing clothes and marketing campaigns that appeal to older women. Cue Mary, who wants to challenge perceptions in fashion- that youth is sex appeal, middle-age is crinoline or worse- invisible, by opening a shop that will radically reinvent how fashion is sold to older women.

And if anyone can do it....

Wednesday 9 June 2010

Everyone's got World Cup Fever!

In honour of all that imminent footie, and because I won't be blogging for at least a week while I'm away (somewhat unfortunately timed to coincide with the start of the World Cup, how did that happen..) a themed post...

Firstly. As one with usually only the most passing of interests in football, concepts such as the Off-Side Rule remained a inalienable conundrum to me, until I heard the shoe shop analogy.. Prepare to be enlightened, and for those who already know football's mysterious secret, check that I've got it right...

We're in a shoe shop. The Till is the Goal, and the Cashier is the Goalkeeper.

If you are in the queue for the till and you are not the first in line, obviously if you're in the mood for a splurge you can get a friend to get you more shoes and pass them to you without causing any problems, so that scenario is OK.
But if you are at the till already and your friend is trying to passes you the shoes, then that's a issue- it's going to cause a hold up and people will start moaning, so that scenario is not OK.  And in fact that is off-side.

The offside rule requires two people between you and the goal when you receive the ball to be on-side. One of those is typically the goalkeeper. And now it all makes perfect sense...



And this leads me not quite seamlessly on to a slightly more relevant point.
The World Cup kicks off in two days, and retailers are frantically hoping that it's going to kick off a shopping frenzy, after the British Retail Consortium reveals that sales rose only 0.8% last month. Businesses are counting on the heady mix of summer weather and football fever to encourage us to spash our cash with gay abandon. But, whilst it's estimated by Verdict Research that UK retail expenditure will see a £1.3bn boost during the World Cup, it's certainly not all good news for our retailers.
Verdict believe that the benefit will be far from blanket, with the additional expenditure seen primarily in the food and grocery sectors, (all those burgers and beers), with a small increase in clothing and footwear (England kits for the optimistic) and that for example electrical retailers should not count on seeing the same astonishing sales that the 2006 World Cup drove, as the demand for new tedchnology is lower in the current economic climate.
They also warn that the towncentres will be badly hit, as people are more inclined to stay at home, and spend their money locally, during this football season, and finally that the homewares/furniture/diy market will suffer the most, nobody has the time or the inclination to put up a wardrobe when there's World Cup action to catch.. Or something.

It will be interesting however, to observe the impact of e-commerce on these predictions, given that UK online retailing has seen a annual growth of 21% according to eMarketer over the four years since the last World Cup. This will inevitably mean that more people will be logging on during matches, at half time, and at full-time for a victory shop, a commiseratory splurge, or perhaps just a purchase borne of boredom and quiet desperation.

I suspect that not for the first time e-commerce will come to the rescue, proppping up otherwise potentially disappointing sales- here's hoping this World Cup season will bring good fortune to both the UK retail industry and whoever you're supporting.

Good Luck to both!

Wednesday 2 June 2010

Have you heard the one about the Buyer and the Merchandiser?

I've always liked this joke, although admittedly it's not Laugh Out Loud funny. More quiet chuckle... And even then it's probably a bit niche...

A Buyer is flying in a hot air balloon and realises she is lost. She reduces height and spots a woman down below. She lowers the balloon further and shouts: "Excuse me, can you tell me where I am? I promised a friend I would meet him an hour ago, but I don't know where I am?"
The woman below says: "You're in a hot air balloon hovering approximately 30 feet above the ground. You're between 40 and 41 degrees north latitude and between 59 and 60 degrees west longitude."
"You must be a Merchandiser.." says the Buyer.
"I am" replies the woman. "How did you know?" "Well" says the Buyer, "Everything you told me is, technically correct, but I've no idea what to make of your information, and the fact is I'm still lost. Frankly, you've not been much help at all. If anything, you've delayed my trip."
The Merchandiser below says ". Hmm. You must be a Buyer.."
"I am" replies the Buyer, "But how did you know?" "Well", says the woman, "You don't know where you are or where you're going. You have risen to where you are due to a large quantity of hot air. You made a promise which you've no idea how to keep, and you expect me to solve your problems. The fact is, you are in exactly the same position you were in before we met, but now, somehow, it's my fault!"


 
I do have a point here somewhere... About the traditional model of Buyer and Merchandiser; and how these may need to evolve as the industry changes.

Whilst every B & M department that I have worked in or had exposure to has had a slightly different balance of responsibility/accountability between the buyer and merchandiser for planning, product selection, stock control and supply chain management, in simplistic terms the two roles are fairly clearly defined.

The Buyer primarily has responsibility for sourcing and building a comprehensive, well-balanced range based on their knowledge of the market, trends, competitors, customers- one that is both popular and profitable.
The Merchandiser is accountable for stock management of that range- placing the right stock in the right place at the right time, based on forward planning, and ongoing supply chain management, and stock control, to drive sales and minimise mark-down. Clearly- both of these roles are equally crucial for success.
 
But things are changing. Retailers are starting to see the merit of a more local approach to ranging- in which they recognise that not all their customers are Identikit up and down the country, and that a buyer in a Head Office in London may no longer be best placed to identify all the product needs of a local customer base. This is something that forward-thinking Zara was quick to pick up on. Their store managers have much greater accountability for their range, and not only feed back as to the successful lines/ranges, but also have the autonomy to order stock for themselves based on what they have observed is working, what they need.
And as for the merchies.. Well as Merchandising systems become ever more sophisticated, with increasing intelligence applied to buying, allocation and replenishment decisions, with price and stock optimisation tools making recommendations for optimum prices and stock positioning.. and with more focus on local management of range and stock... Where does all this leave our humble Merchandiser?
 
This evolution is probably inevitable and unavoidable to some degree. Across industries there has been a necessary swing away from the homogeneous 'one size fits all' approach that assumed that all customers could, and indeed would be happy to, be treated the same, with the associated cost benefits for the business.
This has been replaced by a more local, global approach ('glocalisation') which I guess is what I think will be required for UK Retailers. We will always need a central B&M team, to make central, strategic decisions about the proposition, the range, and how it is managed through its lifecycle. But if there is more of a nod to the local variations in customer base and consumer requirement, and this is managed by those who understand the difference best (the store), then this helps the buyer to stay in tune with their customer base, and to continue to meet their needs. And if systems continue to make merchandising decisions easier by provide more information, more recommendations, this is probably fine too, as it frees up the merchandiser to focus more of their time on the most important bits of their job- meaningful analysis, strategy and planning.
 
And thus perhaps the Buyer will know more, the Merchandiser will be more useful, and the joke will be rendered redundant....

Tuesday 1 June 2010

Made in England...

My new favourite TV programme 'High Street Dreams' last week featured an interesting case study that got me thinking.

One of the prospective entrepreneurs was Beryl, a young mother producing wonderful scarves- hand-knitted in the U.K. to the highest standards (by local grannies no less!) from thick merino wool- beautiful, high quality, and durable. But boy were they expensive. To be able to offer a high quality piece of  knitwear, hand-made in the U.K. our budding entrepreneur had to charge up to £200 a scarf. Ouch. You've got to really love a scarf to pay that much...

Yet, although Beryl could get such an item manufactured in bulk in China, and with a lower grade wool, to sell in this country at a much more accessible pricepoint, in much greater volume; the lady was not for turning. She was adamant that she did not want to compromise the USP of her products- the quality, durability and sustainability that was only possible with goods lovingly produced in the U.K.

And I think she had a point, ( High street fashion retailer Jigsaw agreed- placing an order for 200 pieces to be stocked in their stores), one which relates to a larger issue we have in the U.K. presently.

Where possible we must move away from our reliance on goods mass produced at low cost, low quality, and low reliability from the Far East. There are important economic reasons for this e.g.
Our dependance on imported goods leaves us vulnerable economically, we need to support UK enterprises to aid growth in this country, and we need to re-build our manufacturing industry in this country to reduce our dependance on Financial Services... etc


But as important for me as these, is the fact that we need to become more socially aware and responsible in our shopping habits.
The environmental cost of our obsession with buying low cost, low quality items is significant- the use of resources in manufacture, the freight of imported goods, and also in the disposability of the items- their requirement for more regular replacement (buy cheap, buy twice as they say) and impact on landfill.
The human cost is also not to be forgotten- in terms of the exploitation of the workforce that allows some factories to churn out goods at such low cost, and also consideration of the safety breaches regularly reported in low quality imported goods.

And finally- it's a matter of national pride! Back in the days before I was even a twinkle in my mother's eye, the U.K. had a manufacturing industry known for design, quality and durability, which is now all but gone, with those still around struggling to survive. We should be proud to support local industry- where we can afford to pay the extra cost for the design, quality and durability that British manufacture affords, we should- it will pay for itself in more ways than one.

On trips to Ireland I've always been quietly impressed by the undeniable sense of 'collectivism' (a focus on the community/society, group goals- the whole being greater than the sum of its' parts etc) within the country, exampled by the many 'Buy Irish', 'Support Your Local Farmers'  etc signs within shops and supermarkets.

I'd like to think that the current economic climate is causing us to re-evaluate our purchase priorities, and that perhaps as we think more about what we buy, our focus will change from individualism (focussing on the individual goals and desires) to considering the wider impacts our purchasing decisions can make.

Tuesday 25 May 2010

The Magic Tinterweb?

Another thought now I'm back in the saddle.

A number of retailers, including GameMaplin and HMV have recently reported a drop in online sales, as highlighted by Retail Week, which, at a time when retailers are reasonably expecting that their online channel can be relied upon to boost sale,s driving growth and loyalty, raises some important questions...

Like- does this mean that online sales growth across the piece is now levelling off? Is the electronics and enterntainment e-commerce sector maturing so sales are slowing? Or is it just an issue with these websites themselves- is the proposition not right so they are losing market share to better placed competitors?

Well, in my opinion, to some degree I suspect it is a little from column A, B and C.



Whilst there doesn't really appear to be any evidence that online sales growth is slowing across the piece- and indeed there are plenty of success stories suggesting the opposite, British Retail Consortium director-general Stephen Robertson  has said that retailers are having to work harder to get the customers shopping online- promotions, marketing... in fact the same things they are having to do to get shoppers in their bricks and mortar sites.

And of course- the sector that these these retailers trade in, is one of the most mature on-line, and so inevitably the pace of growth seen in the past could not be sustained, especially in the face of some rather tough sector specific  challenges- such as the decline of the physical music market, lack of innovation in the gaming market, rising price of electronics; and growing confidence in the economy encouraging people to go out again rather than save their money and buy a DVD for example...

But I can't help thinking that, when it comes down to it, if the e-commerce channel as a whole isn't struggling, and in fact is still showing strong signs of growth- these guys must be doing something wrong. Because if the customers are there, then it's all about the proposition. And if they were offering the right product range, at the right prices, with the right level of customer service/experience, then we'd be spending more money with them?

Although..  if everyone is having to work a little harder to get potential bricks and mortar customers through the door, and e-comm customers logging on, then yes they have to of course have to get these basics of retail right; but that isn't enough- that's a given (is this where these three are going wrong?). They also have to think about the whole multi-channel offering, and customer experience they are providing, to provide the point of difference that makes the sale.

In an age of 'considered consumption' we are thinking ever more carefully about our purchases, so successful retailers will need to do the same..

Think Before You Buy: the new consumption

Conspicuous Consumption. The term coined by Thorstein Veblen in 1899 in the legendary 'Theory of the Leisure Class' (oft-quoted by marketeers and MBAs); to define the waste of money and/or resources by people, in order to display a higher status than others. As true today as it has ever been....Or is it?

The Future Laboratory believe we are seeing something of a paradigm shift in the way that we think about what we buy, our purchase motivations, and that conspicious consumption is no longer a signal of success, and is being replaced. Although this is not a brand new idea, as over a year ago Kit Yarrow (consumer psychologist and professor at Golden Gate University in the US) was talking about a new era of 'Considered Consumption'; I think the signs suggest that this isn't simply a knee-jerk reaction to the recession, but a real change in how we buy- thinking much more deeply about our purchases, and why we are making them.

But of course it did all start with the recession. It brought us down to Earth with a bump, from the heady  Boom Years, with over-priced houses, handbags, and  so on. We use the things we buy, our belongings, to visually communicate to others our tastes, values etc. And suddenly it is positively vulgar to boast and showcase our purchases, to 'conspicuously' consume designer shoes, when so many face pay cuts, job losses, repossessions; so we use our possessions and purchases to communicate something different.



A new era of 'Considered Consumption'. or even a 'conspicious abstention' has dawned. It means people want and probably need, to think more about their purchases, and the value of them.  There's less ostentation. We're still spending money- but more carefully, we want more bang for our buck, and that's the new chic- sense, not ostentation.
I think this is borne out by the recent Retail Week report that the premium market is set to take over from value as the biggest battleground for retailers. As the value sector matures, and gets hit with rising cost base, crowded market, and importantly- a shift in customers' minds away from cheap disposible goods, the opportunities present themselves in the premium sector. Value for money, quality and service is how these retailers will succeed, and for me, this is exactly what considered consumption is all about. We're still shopping, but we're spending less and wanting more for it. We want value, we want design, we want finish, we want durability, we want a customer experience and service to tell our friends about (quietly!)

But in some ways it goes even further than this- a Nu Austerity as The Future Laboratory are calling it, a philosophy that is growing in influence in Europe and the US- that's about more life, less stuff. Fair Trade, Vintage, Make Do and Mend, there are myriad examples- and it's all about being more socially/civically aware and reponsible in our consumption practises. "a return to basic values, materials and a way of life that is all about sustainability and conspicuous abstention".

Ring a bell? I guess Mad Men fashion isn't the only thing we have the 1950s to thank for.

Friday 14 May 2010

There is only one Harrods... For now...

t was with not a small degree of sadness that See All her Faces noted this week that Mohamed Al Fayad has sold Harrods for £1.5bn to the Qatari Royal Family. Al Fayed has always claimed that he loved the store so much he would never sell it, and in fact intended to be mummified when he dies and buried in a mausoleum in the roof. But it appears he is no more immune to Old Father Time than the rest of us, and at 81,  he understandably has decided at his time of life, he wishes to spend time with his children and grand-children. Good for him..



And yet...

Three reasons for my disappointment.

1. Al Fayed was hugely protective of the Harrods brand, and despite the bounty that expansion of the store estate (particularly export of the brand overseas) might have brought, he felt very strongly that the power of the brand lay in it's exclusivity, and to that end,  it should only have one store- the iconic, most recognisable shop in the world- Harrods, Brompton Rd, Knightsbridge. Qatar Holding are in fact already making plans for overseas expansion- with talk of another flagship store in Shanghai for starters. Industry insiders (Drapers) however warn that in fact the Qatari Royal family should stay true to the roots of Al Fayed's formula for success and continue to run the business 'The Al Fayed Way', rather than risk diluting the brand, its cache, timelessness, and power, by building its presence abroad. I agree- whilst additional stores will undoubtably increase revenue, this may be at the long-term expense of the brand to its future detriment.

2. Al Fayed had an obssessive attention to detail and control of the day-to-day running of the business. His love and commitment to the brand was widely credited as crucial to Harrods' success. His creativity and understanding of the brand, its customers and the importance of its peerless reputation in luxury retailing were key to its revival and long-term success. As Sue Carroll says," he transformed a crumbling edifice into a a flamboyant store which has become an oasis of colour and charm in a homogenised world", and the success of this exercise is borne out by its continued strong performance. Despite the growth of competitors, and indeed despite a painful recession Harrods were able to post a 9% sales rise to £751.7m up to Jan 2009. N.B. Yes the strong tourist trade brought about by the weak UK pound undoubtably contributed to this, but by way of comparison- Harvey Nichols sales' fell 3% during the same period (Harvey Nichols sees profits fall)

3. Al Fayed was an extremely colourful character, and whilst he did not go without controversy during his 25 year reign of the most famous department store in the world, I believe the retail landscape will certainly be more dull without him. I'm glad that he too was proud of his Egyptian roots (Harrods' Egyptian Hall and escalator were spectacularly kitsch and thus in my opinion singularly fabulous) and whilst he may have been dismissed as 'that Egyptian Grocer' by some, he was generally considered one of the more popular and charismatic men to have been refused a British passport..

See All Her Faces wishes Al Fayed well, but suspects that he will find that even though in this instance the object of his affection is an inanimate object, he will still find that 'breaking up is hard to do'....

Monday 10 May 2010

Smells Like Entrepreneurial Spirit

See All Her Faces is going to gloss over the impact of the recent election until we actually know who has won it (!!!) and move swiftly on.
This week sees the launch of a new BBC show- High Street Dreams, in which successful entrepreneur Jo Malone helps budding businesses launch their new products successfully in a competitive retail environment.


This show is significant at the current time. Providing support for small businesses is all the more important in a hostile economic environment, as such enterprises can provide lifeblood to a thirsty economy. They have the ability to be adaptable, and agile, evolving to meet changing requirements, and as such are less reliant on for example huge turnovers, or a high number of corporate accounts, or simply things staying exactly as they are, to survive and grow.

But more importantly for me, I'm hoping this show providing us with another high profile female role model in retail business, where we still have so few. This is particularly troubling as retail has a majority of women at lower levels of organisations (employing women to men in a ratio of 60:40), but somewhere along the way they are not making it to the top jobs- despite the fact that arguably "shopping is a female domain and in most households it is the women who make the key purchasing decisions". Retail Week

Of course, as is the case in most industries, this is likely to in part be because women make lifestyle choices (in terms of taking time out, or reduced work commitment to have children or manage family life) that preclude them, either by choice or involuntarily, from the most senior of posts. The retail environment, and certainly lower level retail salaries, are still less supportive of the sort of flexible arrangements that family women require to be able to take career breaks or reduce hours to support family life, whilst also, or subesquently, progressing their careers to the most senior of levels.

But there are probably other issues at play in our industry. There may be a perception issue, such that women are predominatly seen as 'product people', with more to offer in the range selection and creative decision-making processes, than on the Board. It is likely that a lack of self-belief, which is more common in women than men, may also preclude them from putting themselves forward for the most key rules.
Perhaps it's also the fact that the status quo of male-dominated Boards and recruitment processes also put women at a disadvantage when trying to break through the glass ceiling, and proving that they can be as tough as men when it comes to the difficult decisions, and also in demonstrating that the unique qualities that women can bring to senior management, in terms of empathy, thoughtfulness and so on, are equally as valuable.

Or perhaps the guys on the Board are simply the best for the jobs out there currently?!

Anyway. This is not to say that we cannot be proud of many very successful women in our industry. Women like Kate Bostock at M&S, Kate Swann of WHSmith, Jane Shepherdson at Whistles, Mary Portas, Michelle Mone of Ultimo, all spring to mind as shining examples of women at the top of their game in retail, which brings me back to my original excitement at seeing Jo Malone on TV this week.

The more successful female role models we have in retail, proving that with hard work, self-belief, and of course talent, women can rise to the top, the easier it is for the rest of us- to be motivated to achieve, to believe we can do it, and to challenge the status quo, for a brighter future for women in retail.

Tuesday 4 May 2010

40 Bloggers who really count

Times Online features this week the top 40 bloggers 'who really count'. Unfortunately See All Her Faces isn't one of them quite yet. But if you're reading this, you may be interested in checking them out...

Of the esteemed list, See All Her Faces particularly likes Disneyrollergirl (fashion 'n' stuff), Huffington Post, (current affairs) Order Order (politics) and guilty pleasure PerezHilton (all matters celeb)

40 Bloggers who really count

Sunday 2 May 2010

What to do with a problem like Argos?

The Sunday Times reports today (Argos has lost its way, say investors)  that the owner of Argos and Homebase faces a shareholder backlash over plans to buy back £150m of its shares. The shareholders feel that instead the company should be focussing on it;s long-terms strategy. Of particular concern is how Argos stave off the continued threat from the big supermarkets.



And you've got to admit- the shareholders have a real point. As I reported in only my last post, the big grocers are becoming ever more powerful, such that globally they now comprise 6 of the 10 top retail brands- with the top U.K. retail brand Tesco turning over an astonding £62.5 BILLION last year. Some time ago, the big grocers made a strategic move to increase their non-food offering, offering furniture, electricals, toys in store, making tentative steps toward the Argos target market...

The likes of Tesco and Sainsburys offering these goods accessibly, and incredibly competitively priced (due to their huge clout and buying power- hard negotitating, and buying in massive volumes, to drive down cost) is a direct threat to the Argos business model, and the threat continues to grow. The larger supermarkets have extended their range, and now offer much of it online (in competition with the Argos website) and with these supermarkets now offering a catalogue that is available to pick up in store and order from- the signs couldn't be clearer- they are going after the £4.3bn that Argos turned over last year.

So what can the Home Retail Group do to protect their business for the long-term? Well the shareholders suggest that new store formats and new categories of goods, neither of which are bad ideas. But as ever, it is not as simple as that. This is a question of long-term stategy. Argos will need to consider anew what their point of difference can be, when the supermarkets encroach on their existing market so. For example- HRG and Argos have the advantage of an excellent delivery network, and well-used website already in place- perhaps they will need to reposition themselves as predominantly an ecommerce retailer. This would allow them to reduce their cost-base and pass the savings on, increase their product offering with non-stocked items, and become known for beating their competitors on product range, convenience of delivery, whilst maintaining keen pricing.

Either way, without some seriously smart thinking, they won't be able to stop the vultures circling for much longer...

Thursday 29 April 2010

The un-stoppable WALMART

Research commissioned by WPP on the world's top 100 most valuable brands has determined that the mighty Walmart is the world's most valuable retail brand. WPP top global brands .
The top 10 retail brands are listed below.

Unsuprisingly yet a little depressingly, 6 of these are the hypermarket/discount retailers (Walmart, Tesco, Carrefour, Target, Aldi and Auchan) which have changed the face of high streets and town centres around the globe. The other four include the two online giants - EBay and Amazon, and the hugely successful European fashion brands H&M and Zara.

The most successful global brands are those which one would expect provide the best justification to customers for their purchase. Looking at this list suggests that this justification is mostly based on reliably being the cheapest and most widely distributed purveyor of said goods rather than much else (with the exception perhaps of the two clothing brands which are both known for being reliably fashion forward in addition to very price competitive) which perhaps is somewhat inevitable, particularly in the challenged economic environment we still find ourselves in.

Peter Walshe, global brand director at Millward Brown adds that 'As shopping becomes more of a multi-channel experience with customers comparing prices in-store and online, retail brands will also need to ensure consistent online and offline shopping experiences'. This is a point I have made in the past, and will become increasingly important as online shopping continues to grow- to succeed, retail brands will need to take great care to replicate the values which encourage their customers to shop with them, across all platforms they trade upon, to ensure customers continue to trust them with their purchases.

Most valuable global retail brands

Rank Brand, Value, Change vs. 2009


13 Walmart $39,421m -4%

15 Amazon $27,459m 29%

17 Tesco $25,741m 12%

42 Carrefour $14,980m 0%

62 Target $12,148m -1%

63 H&M $12,131m 1%

76 Ebay $9,328m -28%

80 Zara $8,986m 4%

83 Aldi $9,328m 1%

96 Auchan $7,848m n/a

Monday 26 April 2010

John Lewis does it again: Never Knowingly Undersold

Did you see the new John Lewis ad that aired over the weekend? If you didn't you probably heard someone talking about it- it's been mentioned all over the usual social media channels since airing on Friday. And the response has been overwhelmingly positive- this ad has been extrremely well received, why it has even been reported to have brought a tear to the eye of many who thought they were made of sterner stuff... (No comment, sniff, sniff)

If you missed it, or simply want to watch it again (and who could blame you) here it is: Never Knowingly Undersold

The purpose of the £6m ad campaign from agency Adam and Eve, is to reposition John Lewis' famous strapline 'Never Knowingly Undersold'. The team felt that this had become perceived as simply a legalistic price promise, whereas they wanted customers to understand that its about "the total value we offer our customers, about the quality of the products we sell and the added value customers receive with the service our partners offer” (Craig Inglis, Marketing Director, JLP). John Lewis want the ad  to reinforce their commitment to provide great quality, fair prices and excellent service to its customers.

And boy does it work- on so many levels. What could have ended up as a terribly emotionally manipulative 90 seconds is so charming, funny, touching, and beautifully shot, with an inspired soundtrack and reminds us throughout that John Lewis is there for customers throughout every life stage.  But importantly- it is very believable. It's us. Past, Present, Future. John Lewis understands us. And that builds trust and loyalty immeasurably.

Well done John Lewis- consider this advert against the last trite offering from M&S with the usual Z list celebs and a French underwear model prancing around to some dodgy old tracks. This worked once. Maybe twice. But the format has been rolled out so many times now and God knows it is real tired now!!! Comparing the two brand campaigns tells you everything you need to know about both retailers.

John Lewis also had an interesting Christmas ad campaign- the 'Sweet Child O Mine' adverts in which
kids played with Christmas presents intended for adults, in order to remind us of that childlike delight you feel when you open the perfect gift on Christmas Day and reinforcing the message that John Lewis was the place to find it.
They aren't afraid of going against the grain when it comes to marketing- many other British brands were indulging in shameless 'Nostalgia Marketing' last year, in which they reminded us of how long they had been around, reminded us of how things had changed since then etc, in order to use their heritage to instil pride and loyalty in us consumers. Again- this was quite powerful the first or second time, but with Sainsburys, M&S, Hovis, and countless others all finding an anniversary to celebrate at the same time, it lost its strength quickly. John Lewis could easily have jumped aboard this bandwagon, but sensibly kept quiet, letting the message speak for itself, with inventive ads to back it up.

Never Knowingly Undersold. We get it John Lewis- we really do.

Friday 23 April 2010

Both Ends of the Spectrum: Good News for Burberry and Primark

It has been reported this week that strong trading results at both Burberry and Primark point to recovery at both ends of the retail market. Obviously this is good news for the sector generally (although tempered by today's announcement that economic recovery is stalling with growth of only 0.2% this quarter vs originally forecast 0.4% - Double-dip recession fears )

But there are things we can deduce from  the booming sales for these two retailers specifically. They are about as far away from each other as is humanly possibly in terms of product offering, pricing, target consumer and so on  top and bottom of the market, but perhaps in a couple of ways they aren't so different after all. Clearly customers are still clothes shopping, but in a continuing uncertain market, with rising inflation, pay and job cuts etc, there is a need to be more savvy and spend our spare cash more carefully, which can be demonstrated with both retailers if we think about it.

Primark won the race to the bottom in terms of pricing, from the outset. With the range manufactured mostly in the Far East at very low cost, and a fast stock turn keeping in line with current fashion trends, Primark's USP is that they are incredibly cheap and you get a fair amount of trend for your buck. Yes the clothes are very disposable, but due to the price, and the fashionability, these tend not to be items we intend to hand down to our ancestors anyway. Primark also keep advertising costs minimal, because when you have a prominant high street presence (growing all the time) with a message that speaks for itself, and plenty of advocates, why bother?
And as such, when we want cheap fashionable clothes (which in a recession we inevitably do even more so than usual) we go to Primark.

On the other side of the coin, Burberry are doing particularly well in their outerwear, footwear and accessories categories. Yes luxury retailers are benefitting from a tourism boost due to exchange rates; but more importantly: Burberry have an incredibly strong brand. They have an untouchable reputation for quality: their popularity as a retailer for classic pieces is demonstrated by the performance of their outerwear, their  macs and trench coats are a key part of the brand's heritage. Burberry also have a more recently acquired reputation for extremely desirable, fashionable classic garments (modelling their current range is the young celeb muse of the moment Emma Watson, I guess the Burberry check days are long forgotten), borne out by the popularity of their footwear and accessories: the lower price point/entry level product typically bought by fashion conscious and younger customers who can't afford £1000 on a dress yet still want to buy into the brand.
So they also have a USP- for those with a higher budget, Burberry is the go-to luxury brand for quality, style and sheer convetability. Those who want 'investment pieces' (which again, in a recession we do) shop at Burberry.

Finally, this suggests that there is still money to be made on the high street, we are still shopping (Keep Calm and Carry on and all that) but we are being more selective and going for brands with something unique to offer us... The inevitable next question is: where does this leave the mid-market brands? In a crowded sector of the market that has seen a number of recent casualties, these retailers will have to try extra hard to find the point of difference that will keep us coming back for more.

I wonder what that will be...

Thursday 22 April 2010

Are you Twittering On?

See All Her Faces is now on Twitter!!!

The growing influence of social media on the retail sector is a theme we have touched in in various contexts, and so it follows that we need to jump on board ourselves!

Find us on See All Her Faces on Twitter and become a follower! We will be tweeting on retail news and views, some of which will be followed up in more depth on the blog, so we have your fix of retail updates and opinions covered.

Remember you can also become a follower of the blog or subscribe to the feed, for live updates.

We look forward to you joining us!

Monday 19 April 2010

Nothing Beats a Good Sale: The Outnet Success Story

One of the most interesting changes that the internet has made to the world of retail has been the relative ease with which new brands and and designers can start trading. Without the overheads associated with running and staffing stores, all one theoretically needs to do business is a decent transactional website, a means to store and deliver stock, and of course a cracking product range won't do any harm....

But of course with every up there up there is a down, so if ecommerce is the relatively cheap means by which you start your retail business- it will be the route for plenty of other competitors also....
This then leaves new businesses with the age old challenge- how to let people know about and the great things you are doing? With a saturated internet retailing market, magazines and supplements are awash with reccomendations for savvy shoppers, so many so that it is difficult for us to remember to have a look when surfing the net after a hard day's work (or maybe during a hard day's work.. heaven forfend). Of course there are additional opprtunities to promote your business through new media, but as everyone else jumps on board, again there are challenges involved in trying to stand out from the crowd....

Which brings me in a very roundabout way, to what I thought was a very smart marketing move indeed- by The Outnet. This website (The Outnet ) is the spin-off outlet site of the rather more well-known luxury fashion website Net-a-Porter, whose owner Natalie Massenet recently made £50m from her 18% stake following the sale of the site to Richemont, the Swiss luxury goods group- which gives you an idea of how successful the site has been.
Outnet is only recently established, and recently celebrated it's 1st birthday, with the Mother Of All Sales. Potential customers were invited to sign up to the website to get an invite to the online sale- designer products in which would all be sold for £1- limited to one per customer. Yes I did say £1.
Needless to say the sale was massively popular, selling out within hours as thousands of customers got a bargain of a lifetime, and thousands more were disappointed as the site continually crashed due to volume of traffic (I missed out on a pair of Philip Lim 3.1 trousers and I'm still sore about it)

Undoubtably the cost of reducing all those goods to sell at £1 would have been a considerably expense, and one that someone in the Finance department was probably having sleepless nights about, but I can't help but think this was a marketing move of sheer brilliance for the fledging site.
The sale generated considerable media exposure- both before and after, which will have increased the awareness of the brand in the market place hugely. (Look- we're talking about it now!) But most importantly- in order to be invited to the sale, those who were already in the know had to register with the website- given those golden details- name and email address, that mean that Outnet have a much larger potential customer base now,  to contact with information, sales and exclusive offers, to build a strong relationship that they hope will encourage us to shop with them when goods aren't £1...

A young retail business will flounder quickly without exposure and a customer base. These things are difficult to come by- yet Outnet has proven that sometimes the best solution is the most obvious- Nothing Beats a Good Sale.

Friday 16 April 2010

Gordon Brown on Retail...

The election is hotting up, and after yesterday's history-making live leadership debate, the leaders who would have your vote next month are doing the rounds to keep up the momentum built by that unprecdented exposure yesterday evening.

Today it's Gordon Brown's turn, to appeal to the retail sector, and Retail Week have been granted an exlcusive interview, in which he discusses the Labour's manifesto for retail.

If you don't have a subscription to access the article, a brief synopsis below. Thoughts welcome.
  1. Retail sales have improved and food inflation is down.
  2. The temporary VAT cut put money back in the economy when it was much needed
  3. Small businesses will continue to be helped with schemes like the Enterprise Finance Guarantee and Time To Pay, a cut in business rates and more lending from banks
  4. We need an NI hike to pay for all this
  5. Taking money out of the conomy in it's still fragile state is too risky.
What do you think? Are we over the worst, or is recovery still too fragile for bold moves to cut the huge deficit in this country?
Did the temporary 2.5% VAT cut make a difference to trading, did it just add complexity into business processes and eat into profits as many retailers absorbed the eventual increase?
Have small businesses been given sufficent support to open, to flourish, to continue trading during a difficult period?
And most importantly, and the question which has divided opinion the most- is the NI rise a new idea, in order to protect spending at this vulnerable time, or does it constitute a tax on jobs, which will have an impact on employment? Over 100 business leaders, including many well-known retailers such as Sir Stuart Rose have denounced the potential move by Labour as potentially damaging to the economy due to th eimpact it will have on jobs, and have further mocked Gordon Brown's claim that they must have been misled to think such a thing. Yet, a number of the country's leading economists have now publicly come out in favour of the move, in order to protect growth as we exit the most painful recession in recent times... Who is right?

Well I guess, in the words of Channel 4's Big Brother: You Decide. On May 6th

Friday 9 April 2010

From Paris With Love...

As we all know, the rise of ecommerce continues unabated, as online becomes an increasingly important sales channel for retailers.

There is huge competition on the internet as more and more businesses continue to come online, and existing online retailers strive to constantly improve their product offering and customer shopping experience. And of course in a crowded market points of difference make the difference between driving sales, and driving customers away. Whilst there are plenty of ways in which retailers can do this online, there is one simple way that they can increase brand loyalty and trust and poach customers from competitors in the process.

The bone of contention that is the humble Delivery Charge; or as I would rather call it, The Convenience Surcharge.

Smart retailers are beginning to recognise that subjecting customers to a prohibitive delivery cost (it can vary from anything from a couple of quid to hundred of pounds), is becoming less and less palatable to us consumers. Such delivery charges are barely justifable when we know that as the online portion of a retailers' business grows (as inevitably is the case with most) economies of scale dictate the the cost of delivery reduces. A large number of retailers operating in Europe  are able to ship goods to your home in the UK cheaper than many UK retailers can, which leads the cynical amongst us to suspect that this convenience surcharge is simply being used as an easy way to increase profitability at our expense.

As such in order to retain and grow our business, sensible UK retailers are already starting to offer more reasonable options, such as free delivery, free delivery over a threshold amount, or collection in store, but this is certainly not the case for all. Whilst I can still get a chaise longue shipped from Paris to North London cheaper than getting a sidetable delivered from Laura Ashley's local depot , we still have a problem.

And we won't have it. Retailers who don't pass their delivery cost savings onto customers, or those who won't take a hit on the bottom line to keep our purchase costs reasonable are being terribly short sighted- as we will vote with our feet (or rather our mouse) and simply shop elsewhere.

Mon Dieu!

Thursday 1 April 2010

Are you Being Served?

Easter is drawing near, lending itself predictably to thoughts of fresh starts, new beginnings, and of course obscene volumes of chocolate...
So it seems a good time to consider what the next development steps for UK retailers might be, in their ongoing drive for sales, and market share.  And now more than ever, it's all about building the brand, baby.

Trendwatching.com are calling this concept the 'Brand Butler'. They say "It has never been more important to turn your brand into a service. Jaded, time-poor, pragmatic consumers yearn for service and care, while the mobile online revolution makes it possible to offer relevant services to consumers anywhere, anytime"
What they are proposing is a holistic strategy that focuses on faciliating and assisting in customers' liftstyles and decisions, rather than simply 'selling' to them as we have done since immemorial. And the ways available to us to do that allows us to build meaningful customer loyalty (always the focus in a difficult market) through becoming a part of those lifestyles and decisions....

Does it all sound a bit invasive and 1984? Perhaps, but customers are comfortable with the trade-off, so the struggle is finished.. We love Big Brother...

The key elements of this concept as I see them?

1. The Digital Revolution.
Smart retailers need to look at new and creative means of getting the brand message out to users in the multi-media space, as consumers become increasingly digital in their social habits, and traditional avenues of advertising and exposure become less relevant. A useable transactional website with a good product offering is now taken for granted by consumers as a minimum requirement, so the real game changers are things like IPhone apps, Facebook pages,  and Twitter accounts. Whilst the impact of mobile retail in and of itself will require a seperate blog post, in summary, these tools increase exposure of the brand to the consumer, which helps retailers to get their message out (which  a lot of the time is half the battle) and builds loyalty through information and deals, and additional services, and when done well, increase brand credibility and improve customer experience with solutions that fit our modern anytime/anywhere multi-media lifestyles.

2. A little bit more.
Retailers require a point of difference in a crowded, still uncertain market, and progessive businesses have to come up with new and exciting ways to delight the customer and keep them coming back. This of course means high quality customer service, but also that elusive 'little bit more' by which the retailer can assist the customer's lifestyle not just their purchase. A fantastic example of this is new fashion retailer GIVe, established by the legendary George Davies, of Next, Asda and Per Una fame. This visionary has already recognised that in order for the venture to be successful in current climates "Service will be paramount to the whole retail experience in every GIVe store", which for him means experienced Style Advisors, free alterations and bespoke made to measure services. This things make our purchase decisions and indeed lives a little easier (we are prepared to kill for a properly fitting pair of trousers after all) which is what being a 'Brand Butler' is all about.

3. All change please.
Consumers will require the latest products, trends, information, and services immediately. This means quick stock turn with a quickly evolving and relevant product range, and access to up-to-date product and general information, and deals and offers in line with competitors. These says we can afford to be impatient. We want it all and we want it now.

Infilitrating our lives in new ways, and guiding us in our lifestyle choices and decisions will be the way in which retailers will win our continued business and support- You Must Love Them...

Tuesday 2 March 2010

Good Will? Good Grief! A Laura Ashley Case Study

Recently I bought a piece of furniture from Laura Ashley. Never Again.

If you wanted a definitive guide as to how to turn a customer into a Negative Brand Advertiser in four easy steps, read on. And if you just want a laugh at an example of breath-taking customer service ineptitude, you'll like this too.

Step 1. Delivery of Goods.
After the customer has managed to eventually agree a delviery slot with you based on your extremely limited availability of these, advise them that the item will be delivered up one flight of stairs for free, but an additional flight will cost £60, due to Health and Safety regulations. This should get things off to a flying start.

Step 2. Dealing with Damaged Goods.
If goods are damaged in transit, offer the customer either a £20 discount off a £550 piece of damaged furniture, or a wait of 4-6 weeks for a new piece, with no goodwill gesture to compensate for the wait and inconvenience. Do this in the most rude, obnoxious, patronising, dismissive and unsympathetic way possible. Importantly, do not to apologise for the any aspect of the customer's unhappiness with the experience thus far. Remember- Retailers often talk about exceeding customers’ expectations. This would be a key moment for doing just that, so beware.

Step 3. Dealing with a Customer Complaint.
When the customer wishes to escalate the issue, advise them that you refuse to give them the name of anybody more senior within the customer relations team. Remember, openess and transparency are encouraged in most modern customer relations departments, to build trust, so avoid this at all costs. When the customer advises they will be making a complaint about the your conduct, make it clear that you aren't bothered.

Step 4. Problem Resolution.
If a senior member of staff does eventually speak to the customer, they should not make any attempt over and beyond what has already been advised, that might turn around the unhappy customer's negative experience with the business. Be mindful that a customer who gets more than they were looking for in response to a complaint will become a confirmed fan of your business, and god forbid that this would be the eventual outcome of the situation.

Step 5. A Happy Ending.
Arrange eventual delivery of the new item. Don't turn up. And don't tell the customer you aren't going to turn up either. Have them wait another few weeks for their item instead.  The customer should appreciate your grand gesture that your third delivery attempt will be at their convenience rather than yours- after they have taken time off work for the previous two. When the customer eventually get their piece, three months after they originally ordered it, with three delivery attempts, numerous expensive phonecalls, and breath-taking rudeness, offer them a £30 gift-card.

This token gesture should ensure that they never trouble you with any further purchases in their lifetime, and tell all their friends (and their blog readers) about your poor excuse for customer service. And that was the point, wasn't it?

It is astonishing that in today's still very uncertain retail climate, businesses still think they can get away with such woefully inadequate customer relations, but they do so at their own peril.

You have been warned.

Tuesday 9 February 2010

You always need more cushions: H&M extends its range to Homewares....

Retail Week reports today that H&M intends to extend its reach to Homewares with a range of living room, bedroom, bathroom and kitchen to be launched in the UK...

Although the retailer's sales grew by an impressive 15% last year, LFL sales had slowed, so this venture presents a new opportunity for growth in the coming year, and is likely to compete with the likes of fellow fashion retailers Next and Zara who have both enjoyed success selling home furnishings in addition to their fashion offering.

Whilst this may come as a little bit of a surprise to those who assumed that a value/volume retailer like H&M would want to concentrate on what it does best, I think we will see more of this in the year to come i.e. fashion retailers diversifying and broadening their product offering to incorporate homewares.

There has been a noticeable trend for more fashionability in home furnishings in recent times- gone are the days where bed linen and cushion choices offered limited choice and limited opportunity to channel one's inner 'interior designer'. These days we more commonly see fashion magazines and style supplements regularly featuring stylish modern homewares, and new home trends. Of course there are already a plethora of home style magazines featuring increasingly trend driven spreads, such as the 'boutique hotel' style beloved of those homemakers who bow at the throne of interior design deities such as Kelly Hoppen... And yet there is still a definite gap in the market for trendy credible home furnishing at high street prices.

So this market offers a great opportunity for fashion retailers to broaden their range, and thus their potential sales, whilst grabbing market share from less forward-thinking competitors, using their existing retail and fashion expertise in a slightly new way.

Fashion retailers succeed when they have an unbeatable eye for future trends, a keen design eye, an innate sense of appropriate pricing, and a speedy and efficient supply chain to bring the correct volume of  products to market quickly. Where they can already do that, cushions and bed linen will be a easy win...